Mount Elbrus, a dormant stratovolcano, is the highest mountain in Europe rising 18,510 ft (5,642m). Mount Elbrus has two peaks, the taller known as the Western Peak and lower Eastern Peak; 18,442ft (5,621m). In 1874 Florence Crauford Grove, a British expedition leader, was the first to summit Elbrus. (In August 1999 a group of Russians (Karachai-Cherkess Republic) summited on horseback equipped with removable spiked horseshoes.) Elbrus is a famous Caucasus mountaineering and ski/tourism destination with large-scale sporting facilities. (Note: There are no technical difficulties on Mount Elbrus.)
Climbing Season
The best time for climbing Elbrus is from May to September with August being peak season. During this season the weather is warm, sunny, and typically cloudless. If wanting more snow pack, May and June are recommended.
Duration/Difficulty
4 to 10 Days of beginner level trekking; acclimatization is necessary on Elbrus and guided tours add extra “tourism days” to enhance their offerings.
Routes of Elbrus
South Route: The South side of Elbrus is the most popular climbing route with numerous route options before the final summit push. The start of the South Route includes acclimatization hikes with 10Kg packs and hotel overnights around 3,000m. These hikes involve waterfall views, prairies, Caucasus Mountain views, historical sites and cable cars or snowcats to Pastukhova Rocks (4500m) to train crampon use, self-arrest techniques, and rope work. Summit day is an early start with snowcat use back to Pastukhova Rocks to cross Elbrus’s two-peak Saddle (5416m) to the Western Peak. (Summit day is an 8 to 10 hour roundtrip.)
North Route: The north side of Elbrus is the least used route as climbers hike from bottom to top carrying their own gear and tenting; no hotels, cable cars, chairlifts, or snow-cats present. Attractions include untouched nature, waterfalls, mineral springs, and hut/outpost for rest. The two camps on the north route are base camp at 2500m and huts at 3750m, from where climbers make their summit attempt.
(Note: An ice axe, crampons, harness, and rope are necessary to properly summit Elbrus. Full expedition clothing on both routes is required as bad weather can be extremely cold and stormy.)
Elbrus Permit
Prielbrusya National Park requires an “Elbrus Climbing Permit” which can be acquired at specific hotels, the National Park office in town, or with Rangers who check for permits at the top of the Azau and Krugozor ski lift stations. Of note, the National Park service changes the regulation and permit price yearly; approximately 25-50 Euros per person.
Solo/Guided Programs of Elbrus
Solo climbing Elbrus is a great way to test and improve your mountaineering abilities. Many solo climbers do most of their own planning or purchase basic logistical support like food preparation and hut accommodations. Fully guided programs are useful for all levels of climbers as logistics, guiding experience, and pre-trip planning can smooth out climbing issues. (Many guided programs meet in Moscow with extra tourism days to enrich the Elbrus experience.)
Training for Elbrus
Body Weight Training: Hike relatively flat trails increasing pack weight until you feel comfortable carrying 15-20lbs (10kgs).
VO2 MAX: Aerobic training multiple times a week; trail running, incline treadmill, stair-climber, jogging, and/or HIIT classes.
Flexibility: Stretching and/or Yoga two times per week focusing on the lower back, calves, hamstrings, hips, and quadriceps.
(Note: Summiting Elbrus is far less demanding than Aconcagua and similar to Kilimanjaro.)
Itinerary Example – Elbrus South Route
Day 1: Mineralnye Vody Airport (MRV) to Mount Elbrus (2,800m)
Day 2: Gear Checks and Acclimatization Hike (3,250m)
Day 3: Mt Elbrus Mir Station Acclimatization Hike (3,800m)
Day 4: Acclimatization Hike to Pastukhov Rocks (4800m)
Day 5: Hotel Rest Day – Snow and Ice Training (3,800m)
Day 6: Summit day – Snow Cat Ride (4,800m) and Summit Attempt
Day 8: Contingency day
Guide Tips for Elbrus
Russian Visa: Most foreigners have to obtain a Russian visa to enter Russia. Apply for a visa at a Russian consulate in your country with an invitation letter issued by a Russian tourist agency. Ensure your dates are accurate for your trip and visa processing generally takes 2-4 weeks.
Weather: The summer temperatures on Elbrus fluctuate considerably. Learn how to stay cool during warm temperatures to not saturate clothing with sweat when temperatures start dropping during summit return.
FAQs
South Route without Snow Cat use? Yes, walking the entire length of the South Route can be achieved. Many start in the town of Terskol or nearby camp site and venture to the summit.
New to Mountaineering? Elbrus is a moderate amount of aerobic activity and prior mountaineering experience is not required to summit Elbrus. Nevertheless Elbrus is an alpine environment and crampons for ascent will be used. Also stay aware of your health at various altitudes.