Aconcagua is truly a great height of the world. At 22,841ft (6,961m) Aconcagua is the highest summit of the Americas, the highest peak outside of the Himalayas, and highest mountain in the Western and Southern hemispheres. Aconcagua lies on the border between Argentina and Chile in the Andean mountain range. Aconcagua’s main climbing season runs during its summer, November to March, yet summit temperatures can frequently become freezing with 30-60mph wind potential. (Cold weather coupled with altitude makes Aconcagua a real challenge and should not be underestimated.) First summited in 1897 by Swiss climber Matthias Zurbriggen.
Climbing Season
Aconcagua generally runs from November to March with final days to enter the Aconcagua Provincial Park near the end of February. The most favorable time to climb Aconcagua (high season) is December and January. (Climbing fees are also highest during December/January.) Off season climbs are permitted for experienced climbers.
Duration/Difficulty
15-21 Days of Intermediate level trekking; Aconcagua’s altitude, elevation, and pack weight make it a physical challenge similar to Denali.
Routes of Aconcagua
Normal Route: The Aconcagua Normal Route is the most popular route as it involves little technical skills; no climbing experience is necessary although crampons and ice axe may be required for summit day. The duration of the Normal Route generally takes 14-16 days roundtrip (times can vary depending on the season and acclimatization of each climber) involving base camp; Plaza del Mulas, as well as three higher camps, which are used for acclimatization purposes. About 1,000m below the summit the Normal and Polish Traverse routes meet up and follow the same path to the summit. If you are fortunate, the last 1,000m will be covered in snow, creating an easier summit experience using crampons and trekking poles. If not, loose scree and rocks will make summit day a challenging experience.
Polish Traverse Route (Vacas Valley Traverse Route): This route differs from the Normal Route as it starts from the eastern side of the mountain and traverses the mountain (also referred to as the “360-Route” due to its circumnavigation of Aconcagua). The Polish Traverse Route is a bit more challenging than the Normal Route due to a snow section that has to be passed before joining the normal route just below the summit. (Crampons, ice axes, and ropes will be useful on occasion). A typical climb will take 16-18 days roundtrip depending on the weather.
Polish Glacier Route: This “direct route” utilizes the Polish Glacier. Technical climbing skills are utilized as the glacial crossing involves ropes, ice axes, crampons, and extra strength/fitness. Adverse weather, higher level technical skill, crevasses, and false summits can impact a climber’s psychological state and make this route a challenging experience.
(Note: Pack loads while climbing Aconcagua are moderately heavy based on body size, around 40-55lbs (18-25kg). The initial hike to base camp involves light packs of 15lbs/7kg with cold weather gear carried by mules to base camp.)
Aconcagua Permit
Official permits are required to climb Aconcagua involving in person processing with a passport and passport photos. Guided programs usually assist with the process (permit cost is not included in most programs). Permit costs range from US$800 – US$1,500 depending on the season, route, and nationality.
Solo/Guided Programs of Aconcagua
Solo climbing Aconcagua is a great way to test and improve your mountaineering abilities. Many solo climbers do most of their own planning or purchase basic logistical support like food preparation and dome tent accommodation at various stages. Fully guided programs are useful for all levels of climbers as logistics, guiding experience, and pre-trip planning can smooth out climbing issues.
Training for Aconcagua
Body Weight Training: Hike relatively flat trails increasing pack weight until you feel comfortable carrying 20lbs.
Pack Weight Training: Hiking with elevation increasing pack weight to 40-55lbs. (Consider ankle weights to simulate triple boots with crampons.)
VO2 MAX: Aerobic training multiple times a week; trail running, incline treadmill, stair-climber, jogging, and/or HIIT classes.
Flexibility: Stretching and/or Yoga two times per week focusing on the lower back, calves, hamstrings, hips, and quadriceps.
(Note: Summiting Aconcagua is far more demanding than Kilimanjaro. Climbers should be familiar with multiple nights outdoors (preferably winter camping) and accomplished multi-day trips with a 30-50lb pack. A prepared mind and body will bring you to the summit of Aconcagua!)
Itinerary Example – Polish Traverse Route
Day 1: Mendoza Team Meeting (760m)
Day 2: Gear Checks and Team Dinner
Day 3: Acquire Permits and Travel to Puente Del Inca (2,600m)
Day 4: Mule-Assisted Day Hike – First Camp, Pampa De Leñas (2,900m)
Day 5: Mule-Assisted Day Hike – Second Camp, Casa De Piedra (3,250m)
Day 6: Mule-Assisted Day Hike – Plaza Argentina Base Camp (4,200m)
Day 7: Rest and Acclimatization Day – Plaza Argentina Base Camp (4,200m)
Day 8: Load Carry to Camp 1 (5,000m) and Return to Base Camp (5 Mile Round Trip)
Day 9: Rest and Acclimatization Day – Plaza Argentina Base Camp (4,200m)
Day 10: Gear Carry – Camp 1 (5,000m)
Day 11: Load Carry to Camp 2 (5,500m) and Return to Camp 1 (4 Mile Round Trip)
Day 12: Gear Carry – Camp 2 (5,500m)
Day 13: Rest and Acclimatization Day – Camp 2 (5,500m)
Day 14: Hike to Camp 3 (6,000m) (1.5 Miles)
Day 15: Potential Summit Day (6,962m)
Day 16: Descend to Plaza De Mulas Base Camp (4,400m) – Complete Traverse of Aconcagua
Day 17: 18 Mile hike to Park Entrance – Transport to Mendoza.
Day 18: Enjoy Mendoza, Depart Home, and/or Team Dinner
Day 19: Contingency day
Day 20: Contingency day
Guide Tips for Aconcagua
Summit Day: Plan on a COLD summit day. Thin air, fierce winds, and slow ascents can contribute to a COLD summiting of Aconcagua. Invest in triple boots (which are useful on Denali and Everest), a warm face mask (Balaclava Ski Mask), googles, and puffy layers.
Health: As Aconcagua is a high desert environment, hydration and extra food calories are very important for a successful summit. Continually sip water and keep snacks on hand to keep food calories in check.
Fitness/Team Work: Start your mountaineering fitness early (4-6 months in advance) and incorporate heavier pack loads to simulate loads carried on Aconcagua. Improving your fitness improves your comfort on the mountain and provides energy for helping guides set up camps so they can use more of their energy on summit day.
FAQs
How to Hire Porters? Porters can be pre-booked through agencies, through guided programs, or hired on the mountain. US dollars are accepted. If hiring porters on the mountain during high season, it’s best to inquire a day in advance. Prices generally rise as altitude rises.
How to Acclimatize before Aconcagua? If able to arrive in Mendoza a week early, there are many acclimatation options in the Aconcagua Provincial Park and Cerro Penitentes (4,350m) is a few hours drive. Additionally joining tours for Cerro Adolfo Calle (4270m), Cerro Stepanek (4100m), or an 8-Day Cerro Tolosa program (5,430m) is great preparation for climbing Aconcagua.